Leipzig - full report

Many point to the 1989 Monday demonstrations in Leipzig as a key turning point in the collapse of East Germany and the reunification of the two German states. So in creating the itinerary for this trip on the 20th anniversary of the fall of the wall, Leipzig was a natural selection.

We had two visits to the Nikolai Church in the middle of Leipzig. The East German Communist party had given the Evangelical Church in general, and this Nikolai Church (photo), specifically, great leeway in sheltering an opposition movement. In November, 1989 only months after the Tiananmen massacre, a large crowd gathered in the church and planned to take to the streets in protest of the East German regime. It was odd to sit in that church and contemplate the courage required to walk out into the streets, uncertain of what the regime would do to quell the protest. In the end, non-violence prevailed and it was only a matter of days until the border was opened and the regime began to unwind.

Also on the agenda in Leipzig was the Cabaret. This was another outlet for political opposition in the DDR. We had tea with a long-time member of the Pfeffermuelle (pepper mill) Cabaret. He told us his stories and trials of performing political satire in a police state. That same evening we went to a show of theirs. It consisted of a 3-person troupe doing skits and songs with political themes. Some were very difficult to understand – a combination of the local accent, political vocabulary, references to domestic politics, etc… One skit that was easy to understand was a skit with moderator interviewing a Chinese guy – who was actually one of the German actors with a long beard glued to his chin, squinting his eyes, making big buck teeth, and talking in a overblown accent. They managed to make a total racist stereotype of the Chinese. I am not thin skinned, but I we have spent the last week and half realizing how deeply the history of the past 70 years plays into the psyche here. It infuses EVERYTHING. In a country where they are so aware the consequences of racism and demonizing 'the other', it was pretty uncomfortable to sit in a room of 60-something's laughing at the stupid Chinaman.

On a happier note, I did get to see Carmen played at the Leipzig Opera. It was set in mid-50s urban West Europe. There were more German spoken parts that I really care for, and for the most part the music was extra-average. But Carmen killed. Slim, busty, dark-haired, and dressed in hot pants, a low cut tight shirt, and high-healed boots. Don Jose was also incredible – a conflicted simple boy who definitely developed his character to this town and crazy man at the end. Definitely a highlight.

Today we train to Frankfurt – the little one on the Polish border, not the big one in the middle. Just a few more days left and then back to Andi and the cross-country drive.